Making Process for Songket
The process of making songket cloth traditionally basically involves the following processes; Coloring threads, tracking, threading, rolling, punching, landing, tapering, clipping and weaving.
1. Yarn Coloring
Woven yarns consist of cotton yarns, silk yarns, gold yarns, and silver yarns. Gold threads and silver threads are natural ingredients that need not be colored. Cracked raw yarns repeatedly so the colors are not faded and evenly. The yarn is inserted into the crater containing boiling water. Then the thread is rinsed with water, then dried up to dry.
2. Bending Thread
The dried threads will be inserted into a tool called a mess to be played on a tool called peleting. This process is called scattering. There are two types of sharks, namely darwin feed and gold darwin. Darwin feeds are used only for feed yarns. It is made of bamboo and ropes or rattan. Darwin gold is used only for the gold thread and is made of wood or wire because of the rough and heavy gold thread.
3. Wear Yarn
The threads that have undergone the process of splitting are inserted into the tooling to determine the length of the thread to be loaded on this tool. Length of loseng thread will determine the amount of fabric sheets that will be woven. Usually rolls of feed yarn or sockets measuring 26 – 31 m can produce 12 – 14 pieces of fabric.
4. Rolling Yarn
The molded yarn will be rolled on the roll board according to the width of the gear tooth and the long loser. The specified width will determine the size of the fabric produced. The yarn position should be checked every three times to ensure smooth arrangement.
5. Blow Yarn
Trimming is the process of inserting loose thread into the gear or brush. Usually, this process is done in the cake to make it easy to tuck the yarn into the machinery. Each brush hole is stained with two veins of the lotus thread. At both ends of the brush is four spun threads so that the edges of the cloth are not torn when attached to the fabric. The cloth cover is a wooden child with nails on both ends. The cloth cover keeps the edges of the woven cloth to be equal to the distance and does not slip. Job fraud is among the most complex processes in the preparation of songket.
6. Running Yarn
The work of the parade is done after completion of the interruption. Shaking is done by stripping foreign threads or yarns of karak to wood. An even and an odd number of yarns will be lifted up alternately as weave. The amount of corrosion used is usually only two carrots and each carat has four sticks of wood. Karak will be carried out when loseng thread was lifted up and up. This weaving process makes threads cross with foreign threads (characters).
7. Menyongket Yarn
Flowering work is the most complicated work in the process of weaving songket cloth. How to design a pattern is to suggest bamboo skewers or nibung blades on the desired yarns. Songket cloth is usually woven with three-pointed or five-pointed techniques. If the weaver uses a five-pointed technique, every five yarns are loose, one thread is pushed down and the threads of the base are then disassembled. After the losing thread is above, then the weavers squint a variety of patterns on a loose thread using bamboo skewers. Belira is placed on each of the bamboo skewers in turn. Belira is set up to delight button bonding. These buttons will make the pattern or flower motif on songket cloth. When the process is complete, the threads with their characters are converted into weaving cloth to be woven into songket fabric.
8. Weaving Yarn
Weaving is done using a tool called a cake or ‘kei‘ in the Kelantan dialect. The cake is divided into three parts, the cake legs, the cake body and the cake head that are interconnected with each other. In the weaving process, loose yarn will be stepped by feed yarn to be fabricated. For full patterned songket fabrics, golden threads are stretched through gold thread piston to produce flower pattern embroidery or full pattern design decoration. For a patterned songket pattern or scattered flower pattern, gold threads are stretched through attempts to obtain the desired motifs. Usually after a thread of gold is ripped, it is beaten (beat) and then followed by two threads of feed. Weavers will convert button threads by rotation and predefined patterns. This process is repeated so as to produce a songket cloth.
The Making Equipment of Songket
Among the tools used to create songket are as follows:
- Weaving Cakes
- Landing Cake
- Rahak
- Bamboo slider
- Coconut Leek
- Roll Board
- Wooden Children
- Two Belira
- Brushes
- Machinery
- Needle Culik
- Batang Anak Kayu
- Wood Carving
- Losing Yarn
- Lidi Nibung or Bamboo
- Songket Song Stones
- Darwin Feed
- Darwin Yarns of Gold
- Cuban
- Torak Pakan
- Torah Yarn Emas
- Sumbi
Making Materials For Songket
Songket fabric is made by using various threads such as cotton yarn, silk thread, gold thread, crystal yarn, silver thread and metallic yarn. Normally yarns that have not been processed have no color and should be colored by using natural dyes or modern dyes. Cotton and silk threads are popular in songket production until today. Polyester threads are also welcome because they are cheaper than silk or cotton. In fact, polyester yarns are made up of various colors of choice.